*Fountain of Shame at Piazza Pretoria in Palermo*

I chose Sicily not because of a lifelong love of Italy, a burning desire to learn the language, or even the promise of delicious food. I came because I wanted La Dolce Vita, that relaxed, easy-going way of life Italians are famous for.

*Teatro Massimo in Palermo is the third largest Opera house in Europe behind Vienna and Paris*

I’ve always wanted to visit Sicily, and traveling on my own with no concerns of having someone to meet up with is the benefit of our spending time apart.

Of course, I miss Gitty, but this was her brainchild after being constantly together for 23 months to spend four weeks at our own European dream destinations.

We talk daily, sometimes more than once, and that helps with the solitude.

Also, I hoped my energetic itinerary would help me lose pounds that I gained traveling through Argentina and Africa.

Italian food, however, had other plans for my waistline.

My time in Palermo on the north coast of Sicily was filled with baroque cathedrals, restaurants, and archaeological sites after which I headed off counter-clockwise around the island.

The few days in Sicily’s capital felt fresh and vibrant, and I was thrilled to be back in Italy.

I wanted to hike in the Zingaro Nature Reserve, winding between hidden coves and pebbly beaches of turquoise water. I even packed a bathing suit and water shoes, plus a snorkel and mask in my backpack. Unfortunately, the entrance was closed due to rockfall and would not reopen for weeks. The gate guard suggested another out-of-the-way beach — not quite the hiking-and-nature experience I’d envisioned, but something.

The Mediterranean Sea in April is still icy cold, and the shoreline an uncomfortable mix of slippery stones and volcanic rock, so I changed my mind about snorkeling and pursued plan B.

*View of the Sicilian coastline from Erice*

I took the ferry one day to Favignana, a small island off the west coast of Sicily, where I rented an e-bike, as that was the best way to explore the relatively small and quaint island.

I stopped in Marsala on the southwest corner of Sicily for a wine tour, learning about their fortified wine along with very interesting history. The winery had barrels dating back to 1939, although much of their fine wine was tragically destroyed during WWII. Like port and sherry, Marsala wine lasts open a long time which is why it is often used also in cooking.

At an archaeological park (the so-called *Temple of Diana*), I wandered for a few hours among the ruins of an ancient city.

Picking my way over massive limestone boulders — in a field of rubble the size of a small town—was thrilling, reminding me of my childhood adventures pretending to be somewhere fantastical — and here I am!

The main draw in Agrigento on the southern coast of Sicily is the Valley of the Temples, although the Greek ruins are roped off to protect it from the crowds.

The nearly complete temple including the *pediment* (only lacking a *gabled roof),* and an excellent spot to sit down and sketch - awesome!

As my morning ritual I often sought out a pasticceria offering an espresso and a croissant filled with pistachio crème. Sicilians favor sweet over savory breakfasts. I had my best cena (dinner) in Agrigento at a small local restaurant recommended by Lello, the concierge of my hotel. And he loved to differentiate Sicilians from Italians. He described Sicilians as being more vibrant and expressive, among other traits attributed to their long history of domination under Greek, Roman, Arab, and Norman rule.

*Lello prepared the most amazing breakfasts anywhere in Sicily at my hotel in Agrigento*

I tried visiting the baroque city of Modica, not realizing it was Liberation Day, a national holiday in Italy, complete with midnight fireworks. The town was overrun with locals, cars lining the roads for kilometers leading into the city. I bypassed it and drove to nearby Ragusa, another baroque gem in the area. Ragusa, Noto, and Modica are beautiful baroque towns, grouped together under a UNESCO designation, but I was seriously getting tired of beautiful towns filled with ruins, restaurants, and basilicas.

So I headed to Vendicari Nature Reserve, where flocks of flamingos filled large lagoons. A vital stopover for migratory birds, it made me think Gitty would be extremely jealous, so I called her immediately.

Despite being bored of beautiful cities, I was excited to visit Syracuse (Siracusa, in Italian) on the southeast coast after hearing so many locals call it their favorite Sicilian city. Ortigia is the historic heart of Siracusa, with cobbled, narrow streets and many pedestrian-only zones. I booked a hotel, Il Duomo, right on the main square, recommended to me back in Agrigento by Lello.

Ortigia is enchanting, and I loved wandering its streets, churches and ruins notwithstanding, but I really enjoyed a boat ride around the island. I took advantage of several virtual reality shows bringing the history of Siracusa to life in 360-degree vivid 3D. It was divertimento (fun), and something different.

*Sitting down instead of standing and looking all around, these guys miss the full 360 degree experience of virtual reality presentations, but not me*

Waking up in the center of the ancient town, I was able to wander empty, narrow streets as shop owners opened their doors, raised their awnings, and displayed their wares for the onslaught of tourists to come.

I began to notice a pattern: almost everything I did involved cities with the ABCs (archeology, basilicas, and churches), the ancient sites associated with the Greeks, the Romans, or both. Syracuse rivaled Athens in scope and power in their heyday and became the capital of the Byzantine Empire under Constantine II before the Muslim invasion moved the capital to Palermo. Syracuse, with its storied past, sits in a lovely location along the coast. I absolutely adored Ortigia, but I also realized I was tiring of my routine, which looked so good, in theory, during the planning. I needed something different.

*The semi-circular ruins of Teatro Antico, the Roman Theater of Catania, is just one of many ancient theaters throughout Sicily that I visited*

I looked forward to the slopes of Mount Etna, near Catania on the east coast, from the moment I landed in Sicily. It did not disappoint. There were no traces of restaurants, ruins, or religion on the slopes, and in fact, having erupted often in recent decades, the visitor center, hotel and shops at the base needed rebuilding multiple times.

*I booked a full-day hike up the volcano*

I rented hiking shoes, received a hard hat against potential pyroclastic expulsions, and grabbed a walking pole for stability. I wore layers including a sweater, puffer jacket, and a windbreaker, as the weather at that altitude above sea level could get very cold. I brought a sandwich for lunch and less water than I should have, carrying only one bottle when two would have been better, but I’m good at rationing.

*Walking towards the 2002 eruption caldera*

The hike lasted almost six hours, ascending about 500 meters (1,500 feet) and stopping at the 2002 eruption caldera for lunch, our highest point of the hike. Our guide stopped often, which was great for my burning thighs. He explained a lot about Etna, having grown up in its shadow and climbed to different vantage points during many of the eruptions, showing us amazing photos and videos captured on his phone.

The sun shone brightly with no wind bringing in colder moisture, so I was constantly stripping off layers and stuffing them in my backpack. The views were outstanding, and once we passed the 2002 crater, I could see the cone at the volcano’s peak another 400 meters up, mostly hidden from view at the base. It was beautiful to behold, and since it was constantly smoking, there was no obvious threat of an impending eruption. Unlike the stereotypical volcano with a single caldera at the top, Etna has cones from varying discharges during different times, and its landscape is constantly shifting.

When we broke for lunch, I sat on my windbreaker while dining. My rear got so sweaty from the heated rock that I had to stand several times to cool it down. Steam could be seen rising from the ground all around us, venting as we ate. It was quite surreal.

There were thick patches of snow everywhere between islands of black pyroclastic material. In fact, snow and basalt rock had layered on Etna like tiramisù as volcanic material is an excellent insulator preventing the packed snow from melting. So many homes in the area, warm in the winter and cool in the summer, rely on volcanic stone as insulation.

*Our guide led us to the eastern rim, where we could see a cooled lava bed leading up to a tree-lined pine forest clearly tracing the lava flow*

It was an exciting day, and my thighs complained by the end, but I enjoyed every minute.

*The gobelet training method is ideal for Mount Etna as it allows for more plantings and exposure to the sun*

Etna channels most of its lava flows into well-established, uninhabited valleys, so the grape vineyards on its slopes have rarely suffered.

Ash fall enriches the minerals in the soil, making the northern slopes more attractive for structured reds, with the south providing rounder, easy-drinking whites.

Although I’ve consumed my fair share of Nero d’Avola in Sicily, the main grapes on Etna are Nerello Mascalese (red) and Carricante (white), both producing excellent wines.

For those wine history enthusiasts, the aphid-like, grape vine destroying phylloxera insect could never survive in volcanic soils and therefore had zero impact on Etna wines.

*Mount Etna looms large over the city of Catania*

For my final week on the island, I attended an Italian language class in the beautiful beach town of Cefalú back on the northern coast. This stunning city is best savored by walking through the streets or drinking wine at a bar.

*The UNESCO World Heritage site Cefalú Basilica towers over the old town …*

*… and yet is dwarfed by the huge limestone abutment of La Rocca (literally, the rock) dominating the area making for a breathtaking view every day.*

I spent my time studying the language, relaxing on the beach with a good book, and walking along the shoreline. The sea was pleasant to wade through and not burdened with the craggy, sharp volcanic pumice plaguing much of the island’s coast. And that mostly describes my last tranquil days on my own.

*View of Cefalú from high up on La Rocca*

I intertwined adventure with basilicas, ruins, restaurants, and many beautiful cities and beautiful people. I enjoyed every minute of La Dolce Vita, but by the end, I longed to reunite with the love of my life. One month apart is a long time.

The Sicilian Sabbatical

Pacific Peregrination

The Sicilian Sabbatical

Sunny Places

Pacific Peregrination